Among the 4Cs, it is the cut of the diamond that determines its reflective capacity, or in simple terms, its brilliance. Basically, the cut of a diamond depends on a few factors: angles, proportions, symmetrical facets, brilliance, fire, scintillation, and finishing details.
A diamond’s shine and brilliance are directly proportional to the light reflected back to our eyes from the top portion of the diamond, and the surface angles that reflect more light is based on the diamond cut. If a cutter wishes to maximize the reflection and shine of the diamond, then he/she must ensure to place all the diamond surfaces at an angle so that the observer sees the light exiting the diamond from the top. So, if you want an exquisite and brilliant diamond jewellery focus on its cut.
The light enters the diamond through its topmost surface area and bounces back internally several times before exiting. The internal bouncing of light on a different surface area of the diamond gives it sparkle or shiny appearance after it finally reaches the observer’s eye.
Subsequently, the angles at which all the diamond surfaces are cut determines the overall brilliance and sparkle of this precious metal. All a cutter has to do is keep the entering light from leaking the diamond surface while ensuring to maintain the weight and shape of the diamond as specified by the vendor.
By now, you must have understood that all that glitter in the diamond is the result of how good the light reflected inside its surface. And a good cut diamond primarily has three properties: brilliance, fire, and scintillation, all of which are determined by the diamond’s interaction with the light.
The reflection of all the white light from the surface and inside of a polished diamond to the observer’s eye determines the brightness and thus brilliance of the metal. When the light hits the diamond surface from the outside, some portion of its enters the diamond while some of it bounces back. The light that reflects back from the inside of the diamond as well as the light that bounces back together form the brilliance of the diamond and its brightness. Simultaneously, the diamond cut also creates ‘dark’ or ‘contrast areas in the diamond, which are a result of shadows created by the cut or by objects present between the light source and the diamond.
Simply, the more amount of reflected light from the top or crown of the diamond combined with strong contrast, the more its brightness and brilliance.
Often the light reflecting out of a diamond also appears in ‘rainbow’ colour or fire. This effect occurs when the light travels and bounces internally across the different surfaces of the diamond before exiting it. If the diamond is cut and polished in such a way that it allows the light to properly bend and disperse within, then the fire effect is clearly seen. In other words, if the diamond is colourless, then colours are better dispersed, increasing the fire effect. Also, this effect is better observed in the areas where light sources are fewer and dim.
Usually, when the diamond is tilted or moved around in hand, intense light flashes and sparkle are emitted from the stone. These black and white flashes are most prominent in the highly lit areas where light enters the diamond from multiple angles.
To achieve maximum brilliance, a diamond must possess both fire and scintillation (sparkle).
Poor Cut Diamond: Diamonds that leak a significant amount of light entering it is placed in the poor or fair cut grade. These stones often have a deep or shallow height that leads to light leakage, leaving the diamond sparkle less or with low brilliance.
Good Cut Diamond: A diamond that sparkles and has some degree of brilliance falls into the good cut category. Although such diamonds do have some light leakage, the overall appearance of the stone is sparkly, brilliant, elegant, and shiny. Often these diamonds are either larger or smaller from the perfectly cut diamonds in measurement.
Very Good Cut Diamond: A diamond with a very good cut has minimum light leakage and high brilliance. Diamond stones are often cut and chiselled to achieve such cut so that it captures most of the light entering it and reflects back through the top or crown of the diamond.
Excellent Cut Diamond: This is the highest grade diamond that represents the topmost stones in the world. They are masterfully and skillfully cut, crafted, and polished to reflect almost the entire light at such an angle that it achieves maximum sparkle and brilliance. There is nil to low light leakage.
Always consult a gemologist before you finalize on the diamond cut to ensure
that expert advice is the same as your choice
The round cut diamond is the most common and popular among cutters as well as the consumers. For many years, diamond cutters have worked to perfect the round cut so as to maximize its brilliance and sparkle. However, while selecting round cut diamond jewellery, a person must select a higher grade of the diamond to achieve more fire and brilliance.
The brilliant colours emanated by princess cut diamonds differ at the centre of the stone and its four corners. The corners display distinct shades when the diamond is moved or tilted in hand, just like the fire property. Usually, princess cut diamonds come in the square as well as rectangle shape and show utmost brilliance sparkle due to the way they are cut and polished.
This cut is perfect for maximizing the carat weight by laying emphasis on the diamond size. The blueprint of the diamond is determined by its length to width ratio, which gives an idea about the diamond and also makes the fingers of the wearer appear long and slender.
Similar to the shape of a cushion or a pillow, this cut offers high brilliance and sparkle owing to its rounded corners and big facets. Usually cushion cut diamonds are available in two shapes: square and rectangle.
This diamond cut is a copy of emerald stone. The emerald cut gives impeccable optical appearance due to the rectangular facets step-cut into the diamond’s pavilion. The emerald cut diamond showcases the original clarity of the stone through its large rectangular tables, which also makes the colour of the diamond quite prominent.
Although it might appear the same to cushion cut, radiant cut diamonds have uniquely cut/shape corners rather than round. This cut combines the brilliance of radiant and round cut together to give the right amount of sparkle, brilliance, fire, as well as shadow to the diamond.
Pear-shaped diamond can be termed as the half-marquise cut. It combines the brilliance of a round cut with marquise cut and takes up a tear-drop or pear shape. It is necessary to opt for excellent symmetry to achieve maximum brilliance.
Similar to the emerald cut but not quite so. An Asscher cut diamond displays square facets step-cut into the diamond’s pavilion with corners that are cut similar to radiant cut diamond.
As the name sounds, oval cut diamond stones resemble the oval shape and have gained popularity as the engagement ring stone. It has an incredible brilliance, similar to the round brilliant cut, but also has the advantage of accentuating long, slender fingers.
Fancy Cut Style: Besides, the classical round-cut, fancy cut incorporates every other style and cut.
Brilliant Cut Style: As the name suggests, the purpose of the brilliant-cut is to maximize brilliance, and cut the diamond facets in such a way that they achieve that brilliance. The round cut is classified as a brilliant cut.
Step Cut Style: This style has diamond facets cut such that they run parallel to each other and edge of the diamond stone. The appearance of stepped facets gives it the name step-cut style. Asscher, emerald, and baguette-cut are a few examples of the step-cut style.
Mixed Cut Style: As per the name, mixed cut combines brilliant-cut with step-cut to give an optical effect that captures the brilliant style with the dimensions of step cuts. One popular example of mixed cut is the princess cut.
Basically, it all comes down to your requirement, knowledge, and likes. Although you must always strive to find the excellent grade diamond for your jewellery, the shape and carat matter too. However, if you’re looking to shop for diamonds within a fixed budget, then good grade diamonds are also available on Melorra that are within the price range that you might be looking for that offer high brilliance, usual weight, and different colour.
But it is advised to look for the clarity and cut of the diamond and always choose the ones that are either excellent or good grade stones. And consult a gemologist before finalizing on the diamond and the jewellery.
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